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Coastal erosion has impacted the Pembrokeshire coastline since at least the mid-20th century, revealing a wealth of archaeological evidence and historical sites. One of the most significant discoveries to date, which came to light following the winter storms of 2013-14, is the early medieval cemetery and later chapel of St Patrick’s which once stood on the edge of Whitesand’s Bay, St David’s, Pembrokeshire. Following the exposure of human remains in early 2014, five seasons of excavation took place until 2021 as part of a collaborative project between Heneb: Dyfed Archaeology (led by Ken Murphy) and Dr Katie Hemer (UCL, previously University of Sheffield). With a team of dedicated volunteers, the excavation revealed a substantial multifunctional site at the heart of which was the largest early medieval cemetery excavated in southwest Wales to date.

The early medieval cemetery beneath St Patrick’s Chapel lay entirely within an area of wind-blown sand. The earliest features at the site, dating to around the middle of the 8th century AD, were an oval stone-built enclosure at the centre of which was a small rectangular stone structure that later became a focal point for several burials. Evidence of occupation was associated with this pre-cemetery phase, including bird and animal bones, charred cereal grains and seeds, and craft production including the manufacture of copper alloy artefacts and amber and bone working.

By the late-8th/early-9th century AD, however, activity at the site focused on the burial of the dead. The previous oval enclosure and rectangular structure were covered by sand, and a large walled enclosure was constructed. The first burials were placed inside this enclosure, and on/around the earlier, rectangular feature. Sand accumulated throughout the lifetime of the cemetery, burying and preserving earlier graves and deposits. Over 250 graves containing the remains of nearly 300 individuals were painstakingly excavated at St Patrick’s Chapel. Burials were assigned to one of seven stratigraphic phases and represent a continuum of cemetery use undoubtedly aided by the persistent accumulation of sand. The ever-changing nature of the site posed a significant challenge during the excavation; many grave cuts were barely visible, and even those that were initially obvious rapidly disappeared as the sand dried or more sand blew across the site. Burial continued at the cemetery until at least the 11th century after which a stone chapel was built. The chapel, however, eventually fell into decay, and was reduced to ruins by the 16th century.

The excavated early medieval cemetery was substantial, and most burials were simple, dug graves with no elaborate structures or grave goods. The form of the graves appears to have evolved over the cemetery’s use, from predominately simple, sand-dug graves in the earliest phases through to the appearance of stone-lined graves covered with lintel slabs, and finally, a handful of quartz-capped graves by the time the chapel was constructed. Several later burials were given some form of grave marker, including upright cross-carved stones or coverings of white quartz pebbles and shells. The burial of babies and infants dominated the earliest phases of cemetery use, whilst the burial of older children and adults became more common as the cemetery evolved.

Exceptional skeletal preservation has allowed a suite of bioarchaeological analyses to be undertaken on the remains including osteology, histology, ancient DNA analysis, stable isotope analysis, and proteomics. The excavated assemblage includes men, woman and children of all ages, and the analyses of the remains have revealed a wealth of information about the people buried at St Patrick’s Chapel, including where they came from, who they were related to, how they lived and what they ate, and what ailments they suffered from. Together, the evidence paints a vivid picture of an early medieval community adapted to life in rural Pembrokeshire.

A one-day event celebrating ten years of excavation featuring talks by experts who have worked on St Patrick’s Chapel will take place in St David’s in early September. Whilst the event is currently fully booked, anyone wishing to join the waiting list can email the event organiser (Dr Katie Hemer, UCL Institute of Archaeology: [email protected]).

A monograph is planned to publish the findings of the St Patrick’s Chapel excavations.

Dr Katie A. Hemer, FSA (she/her)

Associate Professor in Bioarchaeology and Forensic Anthropology

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